Back again, for another Fashion Week with Who’s Jack London! This season I covered some of the womenswear shows around London and below are my highlights:
Held in a modest, intimate show-space at Carlton House Terrace, London, the presentation had an up-close and personal quality. Models, with their dramatically outlined eyes, gazed down from their plastic-wrapped pedestals and stood with an air of confidence between shards of mirrored glass. In the background, music from The XX provided a steady beat and a laid back aura.
Linear-patterned jacquard coats and dresses instantly stood out, some in monochrome and some in deep red and purple. The graphics created an illusion of movement. At a closer look, you can appreciate the subtler pieces in intricately laser-cut leather. The bold graphics were combined with lavish devoré and woollen knits in a soft, sleek silhouette with cocoon coats and rounded shoulders… Click to continue reading.
Brighton-based Thai designer, Ong Oaj Pairam held his AW16 LFW catwalk show at Carlton House Terrace, London. A rare combination of both catwalk and presentation, the show definitely satisfied the awestruck audience. Set in an elegant hall decorated with golden chandeliers, a luxurious atmosphere was certainly created.
This lavish theme continued in the outfits made from delicate netting, sumptuous silks and intricate 3D embroidery, using a sophisticated colour palette of forest green, gold, lilac and blue. Pairam showcased his diverse skills ranging from chandelier prints and fringing to sophisticated embroidery and draping… Click to continue reading.
3. P P Q
‘Purple Reign,’ PPQ’s AW16 collection, was held at St Andrew Holborn church for Fashion Week this season. Before the show even began, there was an intense buzz of excitement. The flashing bulbs of the paparazzi outside caused quite a stir as they swarmed around celebrity figures, including Made In Chelsea’s Rosie Fortescue and TV presenter, Billie JD Porter.
The venue was perfect for the edgy brand with its dramatic black and white chequered floor. Against this, the ice cream pastels of the collection really stood out. The atmosphere was fiercely confident, “A rebel with a leopard print cause…She’s a street walking cheetah and tonight she will reign purple,” as the press release put it… Click to continue reading.
A draped theme was present with oversized hoods, shawl collars and jackets left to fall open naturally. Necklines and seams were square and angular which provided a strong structure for the more delicate details of pleated panels and sections of fringing.
The real beauty of the collection lay in the more subtle textiles, seen only at close inspection. A pair of laddered-effect black jeans with a plastic coated finish made an impression. Unfinished frayed edges added a tactile aspect to the clothing, lifting the fabric from being too perfect and complying with the labels raw aesthetic… Click to continue reading.
Walking into the Minki Cheng presentation at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, you’re instantly transported to a fantasy realm full of shiny colour and whimsical fun. An otherworldly looking floor reminiscent of both the sea bed and some sort of moon-like planet provided the backdrop for the models to stand on.
For his AW16 collection, Cheng was inspired by a nostalgic visit to his childhood memories of anime robots, warriors and guardians in Hong Kong. The theme ran clear in his use of vibrance, metallic colours and sense of fun. He believes in creating a dialogue with the audience, hoping to evoke emotion, sentimental feeling and forgotten memories… Click to continue reading.
The catwalk show was held at Mary Ward House on a stunning runway made from sunset coloured sands. At either end, a black geometric pattern, taken from designs within the collection. As models walked, their footprints left impressions, adding another interesting dimension to the show.
The silhouette played with fit and flare. Sleek outfits were paired with oversized coats, and dresses hugged the body before flaring out at the hem. Plunging necklines were covered up modestly with turtleneck undergarments, but the long sleeves revealed elbows and shoulders through cutaway sections… Click to continue reading.
For AW16, Garner dedicates his collection to his daughter, Veda, who sadly passed away this year. He explores the power of art to capture the lost; art triumphs over the destruction caused by the time-taking experiences of life.
Beautifully romantic gowns in flowing fabrics graced the runway with fitted corsets providing slight structure to the pieces. Loose shirts were tucked into riding trousers and worn under waistcoats with sleeves turned-up and unbuttoned. Delicate lace yokes adorned the necklines of youthful full-skirted dresses. The styling also suggested a young aesthetic with long plaited hair, but the dark lip created a mature, grown-up edge, bringing the Renaissance influence into the modern day… Click to continue reading.
As the first model walked out, a geometric graphics theme was set with a patterned, monochrome, sequin mini dress paired with knee high boots and studded leather shoulder pads. A tough, futuristic and edgy feel.
Despite being an Autumn Winter collection, the models wore large shades, perhaps to shield their eyes from the metallic glare given off by their shining outfits. Those without iridescent clothing wore silvery shadow on their eyes instead. Hair was crimped, voluminous and tied up in a messy bun… Click to continue reading.
9. E D E L I N E L E E A F T E R P A R T Y
During all the manic running around for Fashion Week, I managed to pop into Edeline Lee’s fashion show after party, held at The Wellington Club, Knightsbridge. The interior was decked out in original artworks with a random bathtub being a point of interest for people posing for photos – as you can see, I also managed to get one.
The party attracted the likes of the infamous fine artist, Pandemonia, who is known for dressing up as a latex-clad doll and experiments with the idea of celebrity and femininity.
For more of my show reports, including previous seasons, please visit WJ London.
If you liked this post, check out: London Fashion Week AW15
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