A great season at LCM for SS17, once again joining forces with the team at WJ London for the men’s shows. My highlight has to be the star-studded Belstaff presentation where I found myself in a lift with TV presenter Dermot O’Leary – very weird!
Here is a quick round up of the shows I attended:
1. A G I + S A M S S 1 7
Men’s fashion is often criticised for going one of two ways: too safe or too far. This is the fundamental reason behind Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton’s decision to form their own brand, Agi + Sam.
The pair met whilst working for Alexander McQueen and realised they share a belief – fashion should not be taken too seriously. Their humorous approach to fashion combined with their incredible eye for design results in an aesthetic that is innovative, relaxed and wearable.
2. E D W A R D C R U T C H L E Y S S 1 7
On a pile of air beds, in the basement of the ME Hotel sit the elaborately dressed models at Edward Crutchley. I am instantly drawn to the rich imagery embroidered on jackets and trousers like tactile tattoos. An intriguing skeleton with a fish-scale shawl stares out at me, enticing me in.
Known for his innate knowledge in artisanal textiles, Crutchley’s SS17 presentation boasts tapestry-like traditional embroidery and somehow manages to complement the contemporary latex fabric used for knee-high socks and sculpted tops. The glossy sheen of the latex and silk sits nicely against the matte jackets and trousers.
3. T H O M A S P I N K S S 1 7
I don’t know what I was expecting but it certainly wasn’t this. A wall-full of men dressed in smart shirts and jackets sat on floating chairs – oh, and no trousers. At first, I didn’t know where to look. Thomas Pink really knows how to attract a crowd’s attention.
In line with the brand’s value on tradition, the SS17 collection held at the Institute of Contemporary Arts was comprised of a smart navy, light grey and classic white palette with socks bringing in a pop of colour in hot pink and tomato red. Against a teal wall mounted with white wooden chairs, this aesthetic brilliantly mixed sophistication with a modern twist.
4. W A N H U N G S S 1 7
Fledgling designer, Wan Hung, has only been showcasing at LCM since last year. Chosen for the ‘Vision from a New Generation’ exhibition in 2015, Hung is a name certainly worth knowing.
The SS17 presentation, which took place at W London in Leicester Square, featured clean cut-tailoring, print, classic silhouettes and an interesting focus on textiles. Tailored draping is achieved through developments in 3D cutting and unexpected flourishes of hand embroidery and beading run throughout the collection. Coloured beads outline the printed wave patterns and are used to embellish entire pockets and the placement of the brand name.
5. B E L S T A F F S S 1 7
In the heart of Westminster, inside the QEII Centre, a dry desert scene provides the backdrop for Belstaff‘s SS17 presentation. Amongst the earthy dirt track, lie abandoned tyres, racing bikes and a rusty green Chevrolet on which models are perched looking effortlessly cool.
The theme was inspired by Bruce Brown’s influential 70s film, On Any Sunday, that chronicled the international sport of motorcycle racing. Like the film, the collection celebrates the carefree attitude of the guys and girls from the bike tracks. Taking key references from this along with Belstaff’s own archive pieces of the same era, a celebration of vintage design is transformed with contemporary innovation.
Click here to see more of my posts for WJ.
If you liked this post, check out: London Fashion Week AW16
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