1. Tourne de Transmission AW17
Walking into a derelict studio at BFC showspace, 180 The Strand, I was instantly confronted with the blank faced models at Tourne de Transmission‘s LFWM presentation. Stood stock-still against a backdrop of expressionist prints, the scene reminded me more of an art exhibition than a fashion show.
As I stood there reading the messages and slogans amidst the clothing, I was forced to ponder the concept behind the latest collection, “Nowhere.” This doesn’t come as much of a surprise, as the brand has a penchant for mixing words with visuals to generate a message.
2. Velsvoir AW17
A line of gentlemen in black stand striking against the light wood panelling behind. Looking smooth, suave and sophisticated, there’s no mistaking the Velsvoir man.
Inside Mayfair’s opulent Westbury Hotel, Velsvoir unveil ‘Nightfall,’ a collection celebrating the rich decadence and beauty of darkness. In this block colour palette, everything looks sleek, sharp and cohesive.
From afar these figures cast a mysterious silhouette, one tall shadow of a man. But up close, the eye is drawn to finer details revealing expert craftsmanship and taste.
3. Michiko Koshino AW17
Stood with attitude – hoods up – on top of a series of speakers, the models at Michiko Koshino‘s LFW Men’s presentation look fitting considering the pouring rain outside. With hands in pockets, crossed arms and tattoos on show, this lot are not to be messed with.
Instantly recognisable as the brand’s signature are the range of blow-up jackets that can be worn both deflated or puffed up. This brilliant experimental streak is what launched Koshino’s career in the 1990s as one of the first Japanese designers to break into Europe. Her new way of thinking was a refreshing contradiction to the designs of the time.
For AW17, monochrome looks are styled in block colour. But bright piping in white and red runs around the edges of the relaxed silhouettes, breaking the outfits into separate pieces.
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