A particularly busy Fashion Week this season! Starting off with a few protests…
As I waited in the queue for my first show of the season, we were disrupted by a large group of paps fighting to get a good shot. A couple of ladies, including Jane Felstead – mother of Made In Chelsea star, Binky – started a small protest for mature models outside BFC’s main showspace, 180 The Strand.
Their #GrowUpLFW campaign argues that the fashion world should stop ignoring older women, especially since these women make up a large percentage of the fashion industry’s consumer base.
Not long after they settled down, I noticed three girls in heavy make-up and large black coats walk past. They were walking with a purpose and only a few seconds later I found out why. Suddenly the paps went crazy again, this time with even more passion.
I turned around to see the coats had vanished and the three girls were stood posing in their underwear, which wasn’t even the weirdest part. They were wearing alligator masks…
At first I couldn’t see the signs they were holding up so I was pretty confused. But I soon realised this was a PETA protest, “Animals die for exotic skins.”
A fairly eventful morning, but all for a good cause. On with the shows!
1. T E A T U M J O N E S A W 1 7
Many of us dream of the perfect body. At Fashion Week, our traditionally accepted form of beauty is apparent, with beautifully perfect models and celebrities floating around like ethereal creatures.
This season however, Teatum Jones had a very different idea. They took the “perfect” body and they destroyed it, deconstructing and remoulding it in unconventional ways. Despite this, the result was something just as beautiful.
The concept materialised after the design duo delved into the work of artist, Hans Bellmer. Creating a series of mutated doll forms, Bellmer rejected the cult of the ideal body that was prominent in Germany at the time.
2. M I N K I A W 1 7
Gone fishin’ was the concept behind Minki‘s AW17 presentation at the RSA for London Fashion Week. The designer, who loves to create a dialogue with his audience, took the Minki woman back to her childhood to the time when she was coming of age.
Exploring this journey, the collection experiments with the experience of growing-up and developing a character. For the Minki woman, this results in a balance between femininity, strength and a sense of humour.
The collection draws from the metaphor of a soul-searching fishing trip and incorporates the theme into its designs. Sailor stripes are abundant in a colour palette of red, blue and white.
3. J U D Y W U A W 1 7
Walking into Judy Wu‘s LFW presentation at the RSA, I am instantly bedazzled by the bright stripes of colour running across lengths of fabric. The collection, aptly named ‘Prism,’ explores the idea of uncertainty as a response to recent world events.
Fearing that life no longer evolves in a linear narrative, Judy Wu expresses this notion through the way in which light refracts and splits into many different directions when travelling through a prism.
Coloured stripes and panels are printed across garments and fabric falls from the neckline in a zig-zag ruffle pattern. Direction is unpredictable, colours are vivid, and patterns are disrupted through folds and pleats in the fabric.
4. H A I Z H E N W A N G A W 1 7
Boxes upon boxes covered in plastic film sit stacked together and provide the backdrop to Haizhen Wang‘s LFW presentation. The parcels are packed and ready to go which is exactly what ‘In Transit’ is all about.
As a response to the growing immigration crisis across the world, the collection embodies the idea of transience. These nomads are dressed in protective plastics and padding, wrapped with straps, and tied into corsets, replicating packed luggage that’s ready to go. Slogan badges stitched onto sleeves read, ‘fragile,’ ‘priority’ and ‘handle with care.’
There’s a strong sense of utility, a continuation from the brand’s SS17 collection. Key fabrics include wool and shirting materials in striped patterns.
5. M I L Ó M A R I A A W 1 7
A busy vintage office scene unfolds where impeccably dressed women sit at desks liaising on the phone, sorting cash or jotting down notes. They’re in a world of their own as the audience gathers around, transfixed.
This is the work of Miló Maria, a brand built upon the values of sophistication and practicality.
For her AW17 LFW presentation, Maria takes a look at contradictions. From colour and texture right through to design, this Victorian inspired collection took a creative journey and travelled right across to the opposite side, ending up with influences from fetish wear.
6. P A U L C O S T E L L O E A W 1 7
A grand white staircase under the name Paul Costelloe sets the scene for the designer’s AW17 show inside The Waldorf Hilton. As the first three models walk out, a strong tailoring theme is instantly set.
Irish tweeds, fine wools and silk jacquards make up looks with a slight nod to the Tudor period. Sleeves are exaggerated, waists are small and skirts are full.
Corseted designs emphasise the feminine silhouette and plunging necklines and slit skirts add a youthful edge to these historical shapes. Traditional fabrics are teamed brilliantly with modern English latex and leather to bring the look into the present day.
7. D A V I D F E R R E I R A A W 1 7
Portuguese designer, David Ferreria‘s show was like delving right into his curious and colourful imagination. For his AW17 collection, ‘Freakball,’ the designer takes inspiration from freak shows and the circus to put on a fashion spectacle at Freemasons’ Hall.
These quirky creatures walk tall, slowly floating down the runway in an explosion of fur and ruffles. As they glide, they twirl and twist their arms in the air, demanding the attention of the audience who can’t take their eyes off these magical beings.
It is obvious that Ferreira does not design for the average woman. His muse is an unconventional type with a strong personal style and a taste for stand-out pieces. His garments are known for blurring the lines between fashion and art, and this Fashion Week is no different.
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If you liked this post, check out: London Fashion Week Men’s AW17
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